Garment construction and method of making same



April 28, 1964 A. A. ABALMAN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed June 7, 1962 INVENTOR. ALVIN A-ABAL NAN BY SQmzzeZ M 596221;?

United States Patent 3,130,417 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Alvin A. Abalrnan, Munster, Ind., assignor to Winer Manufacturing Co., Inc., Hammond, Ind., a corporation of Indiana Filed June 7, 1962, Ser. No. 200,841 4 Claims. (Cl. 2-97) The invention relates to improvements in the method of constructing and in the construction of wearing apparel and is more particularly concerned with the novel construction and arrangement of the facing and lining of a coat or jacket or coat-like garment which is intended to eliminate the strains and bunching of stitching and the lining during the life of such a garment, which is the cause of the objectionable condition known as front curl, and thereby generally improve the construction and appearance of the garment.

In the manufacture of coats and jackets it is desirable to provide a lining at least in the front panel construction of the garment. Such lining usually is held in place prior to machine stitching of the facing by means of basting. This requires additional labor and time and very often results in the lining being bunched or strained when the final machine stitching is accomplished, and even the most skilled tailor is hard put to avoid the creation of a fine indented line along the basted edge of the lining which may be perceived particularly after the garment has been subjected to some wear and is dry cleaned and pressed.

For these and other reasons to become apparent as the description proceeds, applicant has devised a novel method of and means for constructing a lined garment wherein the lining is at no time subjected to being bunched or strained and wherein there is no objectionable line indentation in the finished garment. More particularly, applicant fabricates the garment body, including the front body panels, in the usual manner. A piece of canvas or other stiffening material is secured over the inside face of each front panel and in this instance a strip of loosely woven material carrying a heat sensitive adhesive on one face is pro-sewn onto the inner face of the canvas material, with the adhesive coated face disposed to be exposed, inwardly of and parallel to the vertical edge of said canvas material.

The lining material and a strip of facing material are joined in a seam along complemental edges and the facing is secured while the garment is in an inside-out condition, as by a row of stitches, along its free edge to the complemental front edge of the body panel. The garment then is turned right side out and all finish stitching is completed after which the panel assembly is laid on the buck of a steam pressing machine and pressed. The applied heat and steam cooperate to render the adhesive on the strip tacky and cause it to adhere or bond to the lining material which lies against it.

It is therefore an object of the invention to provide a novel garment structure of the character referred to.

Another object is to provide a novel means for securing lining material in the front body panel of a garment.

Another object is to provide a lined garment with an attached strip impregnated or coated with an adhesive adapted to be heat pressed onto the lining material for securing the latter in place.

The structure by means of which the above noted and other advantages and objects of the invention are attained will be described in the following specification, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings showing a preferred illustrative embodiment of the invention, in which:

FIG. 1 is a view of the inside face of a partially assembled front body panel of a garment, and embodying the invention.

FIG. 2 is an inside view of a strip of facing material having the lining material sewn thereto.

FIG. 3 is a view similar to the FIG. 1 disclosure, showing the facing material and lining material in place on the front body panel.

FIG. 4 is an enlarged sectional detail view taken substantially on line 44 of FIG. 3. 7

Referring to the exemplary disclosure in the accompanying drawings, and particularly to FIG. 1, the front body panel 11 of a garment has a layer 12 of stiffening material, such as canvas, secured against its inside face in a predetermined position closely adjacent to the free front edge of the panel as by means of widely spaced, horizontal lines of basting stitches 13. Prior to securement of the canvas material 12 on said panel, a strip of loosely woven material 14 having a heat sensitive adhesive on one face is secured by a line of stitches 15 to the canvas material so that it extends substantially vertically downwardly for the full length of said layer of canvas material and has its adhesive coated surface exposed on the inside face of the sub-assembly. A second sub-assembly, best shown in FIG. 2, and consisting of a piece of lining material 16 and a facing strip 17 joined along complemental overlapped edges in a seam 18, is then prepared and subsequently is sewn along seam 19 to the free edge of the panel while the garment is still in what might be termed an inside-out condition.

The garment then is turned right-side out as shown in FIG. 3, and all top stitching operations including rows of stitches 20, 21, are sewn so as to complete the garment construction. The marginal portion of the front panel having the facing strip 17 and lining material 16 lying over its back side is then laid over a buck of a steam pressing machine and is pressed. The heat and steam thus applied causes the vertically arranged adhesive strip 14 to be bonded firmly to the lining material 16 and/or to the lining material and facing strip 17 approximately along the line of junction therebetween. This mode of attachment insures proper retention of the lining material without strain and avoids the prior practice of blind stitching same in place which has proven to be objectionable because of the fine indentation that appears on the front face of the front body panel along the line of such stitching.

Needless to say, both the lining material and the facing strip 17 are held securely enough to withstand normal wear and cleaning by the adhesive bond securing it to the stiffening material.

It should be understood that the present disclosure is exemplary and that the invention may be modified to suit specific garment constructions and that while a preferred embodiment of the invention has been shown and described for illustrative purposes, the invention is to be limited only by the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A garment comprising a front body panel, a layer of stifiening material secured in predetermined position against the inside face of said front body solely by widely spaced, horizontal lines of basting stitches, a strip of adhesively faced material secured to the inside face of said layer of stiffening material and extending substantially vertically for the approximate full length of said layer, said strip having its adhesive face disposed away from said stiffening layer, a sub-assembly consisting of a facing strip and a layer of lining material secured to one another along adjacent edges and underlying the front body panel and layer of stiffening material, at least one row of stitches securing the facing strip to the front body panel along '3 corresponding'vertical edges thereof, said adhesive strip bonding at least the layer of lining material of said subassembly to said layer of stifiening material, thereby retaining said layer of lining material in place.

2. A garment comprising a front body panel, a layer of stiffening material secured in predetermined position against the inside face of said front body panel solely by widely spaced, horizontal lines of basting stitches, a subassembly consisting of a facing strip and a layer of lining material secured to one another along adjacent edges and being positioned to underlie the front body panel and layer of stilfening material, at least one row of stitches securing the facing strip to the front body panel along corresponding vertical edges thereof, and a vertically extending adhesive strip interposed between said layer of stiffening material and said sub-assembly and adhesively bonding same together along a vertical line disposed laterally inwardly from the secured edges of said front body panel and said facing strip.

3. The method of securing an inner facing strip and attached inner lining to the front body panel of a coat-like garment which comprises the steps of: providing a layer of front-panel stiffening material with a longitudinally extending strip having an adhesive face and which is secured to said stilfening layer with its adhesive face disposed away from said layer for substantially the full vertical length of said layer; securing said layer against the inside face of the front body panel in a predetermined lateral position with respect to said panel and with the adhesive face inwardly disposed, solely by widely spaced horizontal 30 lines of basting stitches which pass through said layer and front body panel; providing a sub-assembly of an inner facing strip and an attached inner lining for said front body panel; sewing said sub-assembly to the front body panel along corresponding adjacent vertical edges of said front body panel and of said facing strip; and bonding said sub-assembly to the adhesively faced strip and thereby to the layer of stiffening material.

4. The method of securing an inner facing strip and attached inner lining to the front body panel of a coatlike garment which comprises the steps of: providing a layer of front-panel stiffening material; securing said layer against the inner face of said front body panel in predetermined lateral position with respect thereto solely by Widely spaced, horizontal linesof basting stitches passing through said layer and front body panel; providing a sub-assembly of an inner facing strip and an attached inner lining for said front body panel; sewing said sub assembly to the front body panel along corresponding adjacent vertical edges of said panel and facing strip; interposing a longitudinal strip of heat-sensitive adhesive material of length corresponding substantially to the vertical length of said layer of stiffening material and so that it is vertically arranged between said layer and said subassembly; and subjecting the so related body panel, layer. of stiffening material, adhesive strip and sub-assembly to heat and pressure, thereby to bond the sub-assembly to the stiffening layer throughout substantially the full vertical length thereof.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,697,959 Maronna Jan. 8, 1929 2,275,090 Reiss et al Mar. 3, 1942' FOREIGN PATENTS 730,736 Great Britain May 25, 1955 

2. A GARMENT COMPRISING A FRONT BODY PANEL, A LAYER OF STIFFENING MATERIAL SECURED IN PREDETERMINED POSITION AGAINST THE INSIDE FACE OF SAID FRONT BODY PANEL SOLELY BY WIDELY SPACED, HORIZONTAL LINES OF BASTING STITCHES, A SUBASSEMBLY CONSISTING OF A FACING STRIP AND A LAYER OF LINING MATERIAL SECURED TO ONE ANOTHER ALONG ADJACENT EDGES AND BEING POSITIONED TO UNDERLIE THE FRONT BODY PANEL AND LAYER OF STIFFENING MATERIAL, AT LEAST ONE ROW OF STITCHES SECURING THE FACING STRIP TO THE FRONT BODY PANEL ALONG CORRESPONDING VERTICAL EDGES THEREOF, AND A VERTICALLY EXTENDING ADHESIVE STRIP INTERPOSED BETWEEN SAID LAYER OF STIFFENING MATERIAL AND SAID SUB-ASSEMBLY AND ADHESIVELY BONDING SAME TOGETHER ALONG A VERTICAL LINE DISPOSED LATERALLY INWARDLY FROM THE SECURED EDGES OF SAID FRONT BODY PANEL AND SAID FACING STRIP. 